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Clubs, Cafés, Bars -- Nightlife

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"The best place to be is always at the bar", are the words contained in the re­frain of a German song popular at Carnival. And a close observation of practices in German inns will confirm this to be true. A real pub-goer may perhaps take a seat at the Stamtisch (regulars' table) if he is accepted. Otherwise he will only make use of a table when it is time for a game of cards. The best place to be is at the Theke (bar), because this is where the beer arrives the quickest. And what is more, this is where one can soon get talking to one's neighbor on either side, if one is so inclined. At least, this may be said to be true for the northern half of the Federal Republic of Germany.

In the south things may be a bit different, although here too the Theke has since come into its own with the advent of pils beer. Originally, however, it was unheard of in Swabia or Bavaria. Anyway, there was no need for it. People in the South drink out of much bigger glasses, and the question of a refill is therefore not so important. And, what is more, the Southern German's mentality is such that he makes contact much more easily. Here, it is quite common for someone to sit down at a table where others are already sitting - this may not happen so quickly in North Germany.

But as we have already mentioned, habits are becoming adapted. Inns now have a bar almost everywhere, and in a good inn it is the center of activity in the evenings. Guests are to be seen standing in two or three rows close together. There's no point in being timid if you're in the third row. Drinks are ordered by shouting, or by giving a sign.

It is better to work your way slowly forward in the course of the evening. For this is where the more privileged places are to be found, as you can catch the bartenders eye. More importantly, he can see the glasses. A foreigner may be surprised to find a full glass placed in front of him as soon as he lowers his empty one. But that's the way it has to be. Whoever has had enough must give a sign that this is so. The most common sign is to place a beer mat on top of one's glass. This means that the guest wants to pay.

The Theke is a place where it is easy to get talking. Many guests know each other, anyway, but a stranger is soon integrated.

Conversations are generally struck up without much ceremony. But whoever prefers to sit and drink in silence is also left to himself. It may even happen that a complete stranger stands one a beer be­cause he has cause to celebrate. This is called a Thekenrunde (free round for all at the bar).

The way things happen at the Theke depends naturally on the region and the people concerned. Far away up North, it tends to be rather quieter, but the further South one goes, the more willing to talk the Germans become. And of course the make or break of an inn is the man or woman to be found behind the bar. A good bartender (Gastwirt) makes sure there is a good atmosphere. He knows most of his guests pretty well, and also knows what they drink and how to deal with them. In cases of doubt, he also knows when they have had enough, and in such cases he may say. "look - no more beer for you. Shove off home, there's a good fellow. And leave your car keys here."

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